New Delhi is awash in good food. From the kitchens of upscale hotel restaurants in South Delhi to the famed aloo chaat vendor in Connaught Place, a reasonably adventurous eater on any budget can find myriad ways to explore North Indian cuisine with relative ease. But it’s within the walled, dilapidated confines of Old Delhi the congested maze of narrow alleys where rickshaw pullers, mosque goers, shoppers, beggars, and vendors of every imaginable thing collide daily where the very best food is found, as my husband and I found last summer while researching Delhi cuisine. The historic and symbolic heart of the city, Old Delhi has street stalls and sweets shops dating back 70, 100, 200 years, peddling the same popular delicacies now as then: spicy-tangy chaats (snacks), sugary jalebi, smoky mutton kebabs. There’s just one catch about eating in this part of town: It can be completely overwhelming.
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